The Big Dam Tour

By: Bob Vincent

The following re-cap represents, in detail, events I experienced during the 1999 Harley-Davidson sponsored BIG DAM TOUR. This was my first participation in a rolling (non-stationary) gathering of motorcyclists.

These events actually began on
03/07/99 Sunday Middletown, CT.

It was my 46th birthday and I decided to ride the Big Dam Tour that starts in Las Vegas, NV. and ends in Redding, CA. on September 19-25.So I called H-D the next day and registered. YESSS!

06/21/99 Monday Middletown, CT.

It was the first day of summer and I decided to rent a motorcycle in Las Vegas instead of riding or shipping my Fatboy. OOOPS! No bikes available from H-D even close to those dates. Searched the Internet. Got several "motorcycle rental" hits for Las Vegas. During the next few days I called every one until I found an Electra Glide with CruiseAmerica. They charged $650 a week and the second week is free.YESSS! But they didn't have one on the 19th. Had to take one on the 14th. Immediately gave them a deposit. This meant that I'll have some time before and after the Big Dam Tour to myself. So looks like I'll be spending September 14-28 on an Electra Glide somewhere in Nevada, California and, what the heck, Arizona too. I then had the H-D travel office, Mega-Housing, book my hotel rooms for the tour dates. I would take care of the pre-tour and post-tour rooms whenever I got to wherever I was out there.

09/09/99 Thursday Middletown, CT.

Felt uncomfortable about renting a bike from a place that also rents RV's and golf carts. It was 5 days before I was to pickup the bike.So I called CruiseAmerica, just to reassure myself. "Yes, you're all set for the 14th" they said. AHHH! What a relief. Now I could relax during the weekend. 10 minutes later, they called me back. "We're real sorry, but we just double checked. We won't have the Electra Glide on Tuesday. But we have a Honda Valkyrie". After I caught my breath, I told them I couldn't possibly consider the Honda. I was attending a Harley event and the Honda just would not work out plus I purchased 3 special Electra Glide saddlebag liners. They said they tried to get an Electra Glide from other CruiseAmericas but the best they could do was to try to get me a Road King. TRY? DUH! Called their head office, spoke to a very sympathetic voice, got no satisfaction. Ended up packing and repacking my 3 bag liners 6 times during the weekend, not knowing what I would be riding in Las Vegas. 

09/14/99 Tuesday Las Vegas, NV. 

In addition to the travel-day clothes I was wearing, I brought shirts and pants with lots of Velcro pockets, sneakers and 3 bags: Bag 1 was hard stuff: bungee cords, duct tape, siphon, plastic bags, flashlight, rags, tool kit, flat tire kit, first aid kit, my helmet, and 6 foot cable locks; Bag 2 was soft stuff: soap, tooth paste + brush, razor, mouthwash, toilet paper, vitamins, cologne, deodorant, wetwipes, maps, cameras, sunglasses, bottled water, granola bars; Bag 3 was future stuff: leather jacket, vest, pants and boots, rain jacket, pants and boots, 6 HOG chapter T's, 3 turtle necks, 2 denim pants, 1 denim jacket, 5 under pants, 6 pair of white socks.

Day flight from Hartford to Denver then on to Las Vegas. Saw the Grand Canyon and Hoover Dam from my window seat. I hoped to be riding there real soon, up close and personal. What a view! After being greeted by dozens of slot machines in the airport, I caught a free taxi that CruiseAmerica provides to their site. As we pulled in, something shiny caught my eye. Sitting all by itself, gleaming in the hot sun, was a red 99 Electra Glide. HMMM? Could it be? YUP! Someone out there turned it in early. It had just been serviced (oil, gas and a wash) and waiting for me with 16,020 miles on it. I slipped my 3 bag liners into the fiberglass saddlebags and headed out to the Las Vegas Strip. Went 3 miles when 96 degrees and rush hour traffic brought the oil pressure down to zero. I learned to just shut it off and wait for those long lights to change. That kept the pressure above zero.

Checked into the Stratosphere Casino and Hotel for $79. Home of the worlds highest roller coaster, the High Roller. I had to try it. Arrived at the 109th floor at 5:45 PM and I was told that it was to late for the ride. But I wandered out to the entrance area anyway. The attendant said "hop in". So I picked the lead car and outside seat. What a view! What a drop if anything should happen. I secured myself in the seat and was told "we're suppose to shut down for maintenance, but since you're the only passenger enjoy the ride" and before I could think about what he just said, off I went. Zipping around the outside of this building, 109 stories up, hanging on for dear life, when the coaster slowed way down. I thought the ride was over but instead it climbed higher, only much more slowly. It was straining, shaking and rattling every inch of the way. That gave me time to think about wheels coming off and what did he mean by "maintenance"?. Suddenly it nosed dived into a curve and stopped. WHEW! It was finally over. The sunken-cheeked attendant looked at me with evil eyes and said through his 3 remaining teeth "had enough?". Before I could answer, the coaster started up again, zipping me around the building, straining, shaking and rattling. This time when it stopped I was ready and jumped onto the exit area before it took off again. I whispered "ENOUGH!" to the attendant as I staggered by. The Big Shot is another ride that is located above the High Roller.

After some deep thoughts, I decided to try this ride as well. I secured myself in the seat while a stereo blasted Led Zeppelin's "Stairway to Heaven". HMMM? I was told to put my glasses and any loose objects in a basket that was passed around. Again, before I had a chance to think about why that was necessary, off I went. This time I was shot straight up 200 feet from 110 stories in about 2 seconds. There was nothing above me except heaven, which seemed real close. I was then softly dropped back down to 110.As I exited, I felt as if some part of me was left up there.

Even after those thrill rides, I was hungry enough for several servings at a $5 dinner buffet. Most casinos have such a buffet. But you have to walk through the middle of the casino floor to get to the restaurants, registration, elevators or exits. Saw several children walking past the slots and tables. Saw a Fatboy on top of a row of slots. Told some guy "Good luck. It's worth it".
Walked the Strip after dinner. Found myself at the Harley Cafe. Told someone pointing at the bikes in the window "They're worth it". Bought some Las Vegas T's, posters and videos for folks back home.

09/15/99 Wednesday Las Vegas, NV. to Kingman, AZ. to Flagstaff, AZ.

I had 4 days before the Big Dam Tour was to begin and I had always wanted to see the Grand Canyon and the Meteor Crater, so I headed out to Arizona after a 7 AM $5 breakfast buffet on Route 93S. 20 miles later, went by a billboard welcoming visitors to Boulder City "clean, quiet and safe". This is where the rally was to begin. As I rode into town, it did look clean and it was quiet at rush hour and those concrete walls around entire neighborhoods sure projected a feeling of safety. I knew this pretty town would soon hear the rumble of hundreds of cycles. Rode by the Super 8 where I would be staying on Sunday and Monday. Stopped for an iced coffee at the "Coffee Cup" and noticed lots of pictures of John Wayne.2 miles outside of Boulder City is the Hoover Dam and Lake Mead. Route 93S got very curvy and hilly entering and leaving the dam area. Didn't stop because I had a tour scheduled for Sunday. As Route 93S leveled off the temperature climbed. Got to the H-D dealer in Kingman around 10 AM. Small place that also sells Hondas and ATV's.

Bought a couple of T's. Realized I had no more room to store stuff on my bike. 80 miles into my vacation and I had to send stuff back home. Figured I'd buy all the T's I'll need so I found a Post Office on Route 66. Bought a box and packed it with all my HOG and Las Vegas T's, all the Las Vegas stuff and those 6 foot cable locks because CruiseAmerica gave me one. Stopped for lunch and gas on Andy Devine Blvd. Saw more pictures of John Wayne, Roy Rogers, Dale Evans and the Lone Ranger. Got on Route 40E towards Flagstaff. This turned into real desert. Speed limit was 75 and this was a no helmet state. YEE-HAA!. Had to get used to RV's going 55 and tractor-trailers going 85. Also, had to get used to 65 miles between exits. Good thing I gassed up and had a couple of bottles of water. Got cooler the farther east and the higher up I went. Dark clouds and lightning in rear view mirror. Stopped in Williams for gas and to put on some long sleeve T's. OOOPS! Just shipped them back. Made it to the H-D dealer in Flagstaff 40 miles away and got a couple nice, warm, long sleeve T's.Started to sprinkle. Weather radio issued a tornado warning for the Prescott area, 100 miles south.

It was about 5:00 PM and I started looking for a place to stay before the weather got worse. Checked in at a Super 8 in Flagstaff for $40. I parked the bike between buildings for cover, just as it started to pour. Nice room on the first floor made it easy to unload my 3 bags. Later, after it stopped raining, I went for an exploratory walk, only to find everything closed at 8 PM. Good thing I had those granola bars and water. Rode 250 miles today.

09/16/99 Thursday Flagstaff, AZ. to Meteor, AZ. to Grand Canyon, AZ. to Williams, AZ.

Packed bike, had breakfast, gassed up and headed out on Route 40E to the Meteor Crater. Arrived 10 AM, paid my $9 and took the tour. Sat near the rim for awhile, thinking about this 50,000 year old big hole in the ground: how, why and what if. Headed back to Route 40W to get to the Grand Canyon on this sunny and cool day. Took Route 89N past Humphreys Peak, the highest point in Arizona. Then down through an Indian reservation where I negotiated a deal for some jewelry. Connected to Route 64N which goes along the south rim of the Grand Canyon. I had to slow down for the most visually distracting, rugged creations I have ever seen. I stopped several times to consider how lucky I was to be here and ask myself how, why and what if.
As it got cooler and cloudier, I thought I'd like to stay over night at the canyon, but not for $190. Took Route 180S to Tusayan where the rates were cheaper, only $150 for a room. It was getting cooler and curvier. Stopped for gas and to put on my denim jacket. Decided to head back to a $40 room in Flagstaff. As I headed south, it seemed odd that it was so dark at 4 PM. I saw
what looked like dandelions or cotton balls blowing across the road. Before I could slow down, I got pelted by those cotton balls, which turned out to be hail stones. OUCH! I had to stop. I only had time to put on my helmet for protection. There were no overpasses or trees or buildings, nothing. I had to crawl under my bike as best I could because those things hurt. They pinged off my gas tank for several minutes. After that I decided to go back to Williams. Nice small town that was closer than Flagstaff. Found a Motel 6 for $50 near a drive-in liquor and hunters supply store. OH-YEAH!. Dined at a small place displaying pictures of John Wayne, Roy Rogers, Dale Evans and the Lone Ranger. Hey. Where's Tonto? This was a memorable 300 mile day.

09/17/99 Friday Williams, AZ. to Boulder City, NV.

It was a very crisp 45-degree, sunny morning, when I headed back to Boulder City. I saw a most beautiful, treed pond just outside of Williams on Route 40W. I reached for my camera, which was in a leg pocket on those 6 pocket pants. Too late. Next exit turned out to be 16 miles away. This was going to be one of many sights that I failed to capture on film. I'd have to rely on memory for future viewing. Decided to keep the camera between my crotch and seat from now on.

It was a very hot 96-degree, sunny afternoon, when I arrived in Boulder City on Route 93N, through that curvy and hilly dam road. Stopped at the Super 8, where I was booked for Sunday. I asked if I could get a first floor room for all 4 days. Sure, they said, but not for the $50 H-D rate. Friday and Saturday would be $70 each.

Took it, unpacked and went exploring on a much lighter Electra Glide. Just outside of the Boulder City limits were casinos, but none in the city. It is the only city in Nevada that does not allow gaming. There was only 1 main street, like Williams. Went back for another iced coffee at the "Coffee Cup" place I had been to Wednesday. Found out the owner was entering his custom H-D in the bike show at Saturday's chili cookoff. GREAT! A sympathetic local. Also found out that the locals liked to call the Hoover Dam the Boulder Dam.

Back at the Super 8, I did laundry. I met Phil, Louis and John from the Vallejo HOG chapter. The tour was becoming real. Went for a walk and found most of the town quiet and closed on a Friday night.
Completed a 250 mile day and started planning for tomorrow. 

09/18/99 Saturday Boulder City, NV. to Pahrump, NV. to Boulder City, NV.

A hot, sunny day greeted me. I had heard of a rodeo and parade 60 miles west. Figured I would check it out and on the way back go to Red Rock Canyon, another local must see. Breakfasted at my favorite place, the 'Coffee Cup', and headed up Route 93N. Connected to Route 215W and got onto 160W. As I headed west, very ominous clouds were directly in front
of me moving south to north. The mountains to my left were blacked out, lightning was visible in front of me, yet the mountains to my right were bathed in early morning sunshine. After about 30 miles I pulled over at the first turn around to consider heading back.

It seemed to take the storm front about a half hour to move because the mountains on my left were becoming visible
and the ones on the right were now getting dark. I heard a rumble behind me and saw 11 white Electra Glides pull in to this desert rest area. The riders were dressed in white pants and shirts with gold fringes and red hats. It seemed surreal, like something from Revelation. Turns out they were Las Vegas Shriners going to the rodeo and parade. As we sat there, several vehicles
headed east stopped and told us the rodeo and parade were cancelled. The Shriners decided to go on ahead and left. I was not so sure and waited another half-hour for the storm to clear.

I continued west into Pahrump, a 1 street metropolis. There were casinos and shopping centers. Met a beautiful woman named Bridget... On the way east out of Pahrump, I got caught in that storm and had to break out the rain gear for the first time. It poured for 40 miles. Skipped Red Rock Canyon. The sun came out, but I kept the rain gear on just in case it rained again. It didn't.

Back in 96-degree Boulder City, I washed the bike for the first time. The milky, desert dirt and film would not come off easily. Went to the Chamber of Commerce Chili Cookoff. Sampled the 'Coffee Cup' chili first. It was hot. NUCLEAR! And their bike was hot, too: an orange, chopped and lowered, 100 ci, chromed show bike. LOUD! I sampled all 12 chili booths. Some gave away tequila or trinkets to possibly influence my vote. My favorite was the jalapeno ice cream. But even after all those other chilies, I could still taste that nuclear chili. So I voted for it.

I was wearing my Hartford HOG chapter vest when someone called out "Hey Hartford". I turned around and met Gary and Sally, Bill and Patti from the Palm Beach HOG chapter. Turns out they frequented the same bar I was tending in the late 70's. They knew my bosses and it could be possible that I had served them drinks. We were all staying at Super 8. We agreed to meet the next morning at the rally registration. Later that night, I went into the Super 8 lounge, hoping to see the DeLaHoya/Trinidad boxing match. It was not on, but my attention was diverted to bartender Lisa, who introduced me to Al, Kathy and Karen. We all ended up at the Backstop Cafe, where we danced to a band with a great female drummer/singer. It was the end of a long day. I had only ridden 150 miles, but I had met some beautiful people out here in this desert world. Even though the tour officially begins tomorrow, I felt as if I had done as much as anyone could have done up to this point. If I went home now, I would remember this as a great vacation. I had lost track of time.

I had not read a newspaper or watched TV or listened to the radio, except for weather reports. After a while, I didn't care what the weather was or was going to be. My mind was clear. I was ready. These experiences were possible because I was traveling on a motorcycle. Every time I stopped for gas or food, someone would start a conversation. This just would not happen if I were in a car. Maybe an RV, but definitely not a car. Thank you H-D. 

09/19/99 Sunday Boulder City, NV.

The hot, morning sun was drying last night's dew on the motorcycles that filled the Super 8 parking lot as I rode to the check-in area where I got wristbanded and given a bag of T's, trinkets and maps. Met Danny and Donna, who rode from Vancouver, BC, Canada, AAAA!

We were joined by Gary and Sally and Bill and Patti from the Palm Beach HOG chapter. We rode to the Hoover Dam for our special hardhat tour. Saw Phil, Louis and John from the Vallejo HOG chapter. Phil stayed behind while the elevator took us 70 stories down to the massive generators. Climbed aboard a bus that took us to places the tour guide had never been. The dam was built under budget and before the due date. AMAZING! What people can do. Rode back to the park for a rally BBQ: hot dogs, hamburgs, salads, soda and lots of water. Met Joe and Sue, also from the Palm Beach HOG chapter and their son, JW, who trailered his bike from Kansas City. We were on our own and since I had been around this area for a few days, I suggested we all ride to Red Rock Canyon, which a couple of local folks had recommended as a must see. So I was elected road captain for the ride with Gary/Sally, Bill/Patti, Joe/Sue and JW: 4 rented Electra Glides and JW on his Softtail. Went up Route 93N, connected to 215W and got lost. Stopped for gas, directions and water at a Chevron. I haven't used my new Mobil Speedpass because I can't find many Mobil stations. We got onto 160W which led us to Route 159N, Red Rock Canyon, 30 miles west of Las Vegas. Flat and dry desert with huge mountains to our left. Later we rode through those same mountains, where we stopped for a
wild west show. But we got there after the shootout and hanging. Somehow, my sunglasses blew out of my shirt pocket. I stopped, but couldn't find them. Some coyote must have scooped them up and is now strutting around the desert, looking pretty cool. We had lunch and continued to look for red rocks. We did see 1 big mountain on our left that had a large, horizontal, reddish streak through it. Saw hiking signs and then there was Las Vegas. That was it. YUP!

There was a red rock out there in the canyon and we saw it. Guess you're supposed to hike it, not ride through it. Rode through heavy traffic on our way back to Boulder City. Joe/Sue and JW split off for Henderson, where they were staying. The rest of us went back to the Super 8. We all had a so-so dinner at the marina on Lake Mead. I showed some pictures I had developed. They liked the one I took of myself, riding semi-naked in the desert. We agreed to meet at the rally breakfast in the morning and this ended our first Big Dam day at 100 miles.

09/20/99 Monday Boulder City, NV.

There were hundreds of bikes shining in the morning sun at the rally breakfast. We met Charlene, a vegetarian minister and real estate agent who rode her Softtail from Redding, where the tour ends.

Everyone was doing their own thing today. The Las Vegas HOG chapter had a poker run to the south. I mailed more stuff home, then rode with Danny and Donna to the H-D dealer in Las Vegas for T's, food and music. Met Miss H-D while Danny had his oil changed, AAAA!. 

Rode with Danny and Donna to the Valley of Fire state park 45 miles northeast of Las Vegas, off Route 15N on 169S. I was not prepared for some of the most dramatic scenery since the Grand Canyon. This may be better because you are allowed to hike around, which we didn't do.

We passed the Beehives, red sandstone cliffs with big holes in them; petrified logs; petroglyphs; giant pillars of red rocks known as the Seven Sisters where people picnic; and Elephant Rock. We saw some people on bicycles. I have no idea why someone would ride a bicycle through 100 degree curvy, hilly, desert canyon roads. Got on to Route 167S, which led us right to the Hoover Dam. What a ride. Got back just in time for the 5 PM riders meeting where we found out there were about 550 people from 38 states, 4 Canadian provinces AAAA! and 6 foreign countries. Also found out I had picked up someone's rally guidebook that we needed to get stamped at the dealer stops along the tour. Danny turned it in for me. Charlene joined us for dinner at 'Le Bistro', a really fine place to end our stay in Boulder City. She told us she lost her rally guide book. OH-OH! I confessed that I had picked up an extra book at breakfast and turned it in. Oh well. Today I covered 200 miles, but the real ride begins tomorrow. 

09/21/99 Tuesday Boulder City, NV. to Pahrump, NV. to Death Valley, CA. to Stovepipe Wells to Mammoth Lakes, CA.

We all knew this could be the most grueling day of the tour. At 375 miles, it was the longest and because most of it was through the Death Valley desert, it was the hottest. So I began drinking water like a camel. We all packed up and checked out of the motel. For some reason I miss Boulder City and would like to go back.

Rode with Gary/Sally, Bill/Patti, Danny/Donna, Joe/Sue and JW. I led this international pack of rough riders up Route 93N to 215W to 160W to Pahrump where we stopped for gas, food and water. Took 372W into the desert, where it turns into Route 178W in California. Its 10 AM and I just finished my 3rd quart of water as we turned onto 127N. Stopped in Death Valley Junction to rest. Noticed how quiet the desert is and there were no insects or birds. Though we were 192 feet below sea level, we could see huge mountain peaks to our left. Continued on to Route 190N, through Furnace Creek. I pulled into the left lane and slowed down to take pictures of my fellow desert rats as they passed me. Got some great shots. Stopped in Stovepipe Wells to rest. Found a tree to park under!

It was past lunchtime, yet no one seemed hungry. I finished my 4th quart of water and bought a Gatorade, which revived me. Even though I drank all that water, I wasn't sweating (or peeing). The thermometer under the shade of the porch roof said 110, the temp gauge on my dashboard was past 120. It really was like an oven and I loved it. We had a choice of gas: pump 1, 87 octane or pump 2, 87 octane. Both were $1.79. Such a deal! Just before we left, Gary found a lawn sprinkler and just stood in it, getting soaked. He was dry again in 5 minutes. Continued on 190N to 136N to 395N in Lone Pine. The intense heat was dissipating as we climbed higher into the mountains towards Mammoth Lakes. As we approached Big Pine, we encountered a traffic jam. It was probably the 4:30 PM rush hour. As we inched along, we noticed flashing lights and police directing traffic into single lanes. What we saw next would affect us the rest of the tour. There was debris all over the road. People standing around wide-eyed and motionless. Something terrible had happened to the 3 downed bikes and a smashed-up pickup truck.

We continued climbing up 395N. The air wasn't the only thing getting chilly, so we stopped to put on jackets and talk about what we had seen. I had been to shocked to take pictures of bikes laying on the road. We continued and got to our motels around 6 PM just before a chilly 60 degree rain began to fall. My room at Rodeway was on the second floor and cost $64. Later we met at a bar called Grumpy's where I somehow set the alarm off on the bike I parked next to in the rain. It said "ATTENTION! ATTENTION! MOVE AWAY FROM THE BIKE! MOVE AWAY FROM THE BIKE!".

As I locked my rear wheel the owner came out to shut it off and looked at me kind of funny. I just smiled. Inside I met Bill and June, who had ridden from Leominster, MA. Real nice people.

Had a drink with Danny and Donna. Saw Phil and Louis. Sat with them for quite awhile. Turns out they were 15 cars behind the accident and had been there as the ambulance arrived. It was a fatal accident for the rider on bike #1 that got hit head-on by a pick-up that crossed into their lane. The pick-up also sideswiped bike #2, throwing the rider into a barbwire fence. Bike #3 slid off the road. Phil, Louis and John were considering leaving the tour, going home and not riding anymore. They said it was a devastating scene. They were glad to have said goodbye to their families before they left for this tour. This was starting to affect me, too. I felt like a soldier, who after coming back from a dangerous mission, is told some of his patrol will not be coming back. We left Grumpy's hoping to see each other in the morning. I started my bike in the cold rain, thinking about some family somewhere getting a phone call. As I let out the clutch, the bike lurched, stopped quick and fell over. DOOP! I forgot to unlock the rear wheel.

I crawled out from under it, turned around, grabbed it and lifted it up with my legs in 2 seconds. How quickly things can happen on a bike. Was there a message in this little incident, considering what had happened today? Would Phil, Louis and John continue the tour? Would I? Should I?

09/22/99 Wednesday Mammoth Lakes, CA. to Sonora, CA.

Woke up to the sounds of last night's rain still pouring down on dozens of bikes. Looked out my open window to a cold, grey 6 AM day, thinking of all that had happened yesterday and what may happen today. 24 hours ago, I was drinking water like a camel and packing my saddlebags for a ride through Death Valley Desert. In a moment, I'll be drinking something warm and packing my saddlebags for a ride through Yosemite National Park. Sometime during the night, I must have decided to continue this adventure, regardless of the fatal accident I had come upon in Big Pine. This was "the decision" that all bikers make on occasion. I asked myself the "what if and why" questions and replied with the "live to ride and ride to live" answers. I was doing
something I love and no matter what happens, I RIDE. Met up with the 5 other bikers that had crossed the desert with me: Gary and Sally, Bill and Patti, Joe and Sue from the Palm Beach HOG chapter, their son JW, from Kansas City, and Danny and Donna from Vancouver, BC, Canada, AAAA! Joining us was Ted from the Yuba City HOG chapter. He knew the way to Jamestown, our next stop, and he agreed to lead us to the end of the tour in Redding. My rented 99 Electra Glide had been running great. Through 95 degree Las Vegas traffic jams, 120 degree deserts and now in 45 degree rain. But we were all pinging as we climbed along Route 395N. This had to be due to the 87 octane we got at Stovepipe Wells yesterday. Stopped at the base of Yosemite for gas at $2.10 per gallon and breakfast at $2.10 per egg. Heard a report that it was 38 degrees, foggy and raining along the eastern, upside of Route 120W which goes through the park, but 90 degrees, sunny and dry on the western, downside. Some of us decided to take Route 108W, around the park to the north, through Sonora Pass, to avoid the fog. WHAT A RIDE! Every sense was treated to a thrill and every curve demanded skill. Cathedrals of evergreens, drenched in morning rain, caused the air at 5000 feet to taste like pine. The road arched upwards so much, I had to lean forward. We rode this spiral road for a while, eventually leveling off at 7000 feet. What goes up must come down and we started twisting our way down to what I thought would be "the other side". NOPE! This was just the beginning of the Sonora Pass rollercoaster. Up a lot, down a little, up some more, down a little.

Eventually we reached the summit at 9600 feet and stopped to catch our breath. The Floridians had to adjust to this type of riding, because they were used to flat, straight, right-angled roads. This mountain road had 5 MPH uphill and downhill switchbacks (u-turns). On the way up, I saw the bottom of the riders boots ahead of me and on the way down, I saw the top of their helmets. By 3 PM I reached my $69 Sonora Days Inn. It was 90 degrees, I was sore and the last thing I wanted to see was another hill or curve.

I did some laundry, had some film developed and went over to the H-D dealer in Jamestown for T's, food, music and a wild west shoot- out. I was very happy to see Phil, Louis and John from the Vallejo HOG chapter. They had made "the decision" to stay with the tour. Had dinner with Joe/Sue and JW, who crossed Yosemite with no problems. Walked through downtown Jamestown in 5 minutes, ending a 300 mile day.

09/23/99 Thursday Sonora, CA. to Sausalito, CA. to Cotati, CA.

During a great breakfast in downtown Sonora, I heard stories of the New Melones Dam and Copperopolis, a mining and ghost town area. The 6 bikes I was with headed out to Route 49N. The Sierra Nevada mountains we had crossed yesterday were barely visible to our right.

We connected to Route 12W in San Andreas. As we passed Travis AFB, a jet came so close, so quick, I thought someone behind me had crashed. We stopped around 11 AM at a winery in Napa and then on to Sausalito for lunch, a H-D dealer for T's and pictures of the Golden Gate Bridge. Got stuck in a 3 PM San Francisco rush hour traffic jam on Route 580N. Motorcycles in California are allowed to lane share: travel down the dashed line between cars, but at no more than 20 MPH. We chose not to take advantage of this new opportunity, even if the car drivers were respectful of biker space. It was after 5 PM when we stopped at the H-D dealer in Cotati for more T's, food and music. Met a nice couple, Rick and Margo, who were national HOG members from Cotati. Saw Phil again, who had stopped at his house to do laundry and then went back to his motel.

I stayed at a $59 Best Western after a 250 mile ride. 

09/24/99 Friday Cotati, CA. to Mendocino, CA. to Ft. Bragg, CA. to Eureka, CA.

Friday morning was a foggy and cool 50 degrees. Since we all stayed at different motels, the default plan was to meet at the H-D dealers in the mornings. So I met Ted, Gary/Sally, Bill/Patti, Danny/Donna, Joe/Sue and JW. We decided to skip our usual biker breakfast, skip the Monticello Dam and instead, head up the Pacific coast on Route 1N. Encountered some beautiful hills and curves. We were leaning into a blind, banked curve at about 35 MPH when suddenly there was a school bus with its red lights flashing. LEANING? CURVE? STOP? NOT QUITE! It got a little messy for a couple of us, but we recovered and rode on. Stopped in Mendocino for gas and to walk around this small coastal town. We needed some caloric intake, so we stopped at a little seafood restaurant on a cove in Ft. Bragg. Had a great seafood chowder and a tasty crab cocktail. Connected to Route 101N and made it to the H-D dealer in Eureka by dusk for still more T's, food and music. I stayed in a $61 Super 8 that was surrounded by cocktail lounges. For some reason, I didn't feel like going out after a scenic 300 mile day. 

This was not a nice way to begin the last day of the Big Dam Tour. We found a small restaurant, where we were seated in a back room, with the loudest, crying baby I ever heard. I only drank liquids just in case I wasn't ready for anything solid. After 40 minutes, no one had their food yet. Seems the kitchen lost power. We had to leave the crying baby without eating, but it gave me a chance to recuperate.

Route 299E was another hilly and curvy road, only the trees were bigger and closer to the road. Waved to Phil, Louis and John as we passed them taking pictures of the redwoods. We skipped the Trinity Dam but stopped for an early lunch and rest room break. This was our last dam lunch together and I wanted to pay. On the way out, I saw Bill and June again, from Leominster, MA., who were surprised that I remembered their names. Back on 299E, we stopped at Chandelier Tree, the giant redwood that
people drive through. We made it to the H-D dealer in Redding for even more T's, food and music. Met Charlene again, the vegetarian minister and real estate agent and her husband Bob. She had ridden from Redding to Las Vegas, where I met her. But on the way back to Redding, her clutch failed. She had it repaired, but now both she and her husband were selling their bikes. When checking into my $60 Comfort Inn, the couple with the crying baby were in line in front of me. YUP! The baby was still crying.

I had to ask the clerk not to put me in a room anywhere near them. Some of my group visited the Whiskeytown Dam, while I decided to have more film developed and mail as much stuff as I could back home. I was the last arrival at the Last Dam party on Shasta Dam, the first private party ON the dam in 50 years. Food, music, full moon and lots of hugs. It was a very sad moment, as the 300 bikes prepared to leave. There were fire fighters trying to extinguish the orange glow of a forest fire in the distance. But no one was going to extinguish the glow from my heart and the memories burned into my mind.

Later, I went to the Holiday Inn to meet our band of gypsies, exchange addresses and show some pictures. We had a small, ceremonial cutting of the wristbands. I kept mine on. At some point, I looked up and saw this pony-tailed, fellow sitting at the bar. Something prompted me to tap him on the shoulder and ask if his name was Fred. He looks at me kind of funny and asks why. I said you look like the person I had been looking for all week to pass along a hello from Al, a New Haven HOG chapter member. Well, Fred couldn't believe I had found him. So we bought each other a beer. We were all going our separate ways in the morning: Fred was heading back to Florida through Utah and I was heading back to Las Vegas through Reno. This can happen at the end of a 150 mile day and the end of the H-D Big Dam Tour.

09/26/99 Sunday Redding, CA. to Yuba City, CA. to Reno, NV.to Yerington, NV.

The H-D Big Dam Tour was officially over. The 550 people and 300 bikes were all going their separate ways, back to where ever they came from. This was a beautiful, warm Sunday morning. We skipped breakfast and were on the road before sunrise. Danny/Donna slept late and will go north to Vancouver, AAAA!. Gary/Sally, Bill/Patti, Joe/Sue, JW got on Route 5S and would connect with Route 15N to Las Vegas to return their rented bikes. Ted and I rode with them for the last dam time until we split off to Route 20E to Yuba City, his home town, where I would split off to Reno. Yuba City has big food factories processing tomatoes, beets, broccoli, carrots and celery. The place smelled like V-8 juice. I followed Ted to his house, where his wife, Pat, and their dog greeted him after a 10 day absence. They bought me breakfast and Ted decides to lead me to Reno, where there was an annual H-D Street Vibrations event.

So off we went, following Route 20E to Route 80E. This meant going through the Sierra Nevada mountains again. This time it was just the 2 of us and Ted wanted to get to Reno and back before dark. We really cranked, meaning as fast as we could. The road was hilly and curvy, but nowhere near as tight as Route 108W in Yosemite. I had a difficult time keeping up with him. We stopped at Donner Pass, 7200 feet, named after a pioneer party that got snowed in. When their food ran out, I'm not clear on what Donner did with the non-survivors. Ted split off to his mother's house and I went downtown for some
more...T's, food and music. As I was leaving the downtown area, I was directed to go left, but I was intending to go right. I slowed down in that moment of indecision, pointed the bike right but looked left. DOOP! The bike fell over in the intersection, in front of a thousand  on-lookers. I bent down, put my butt by the seat, grabbed the throttle with my left hand, the saddlebag with my right hand and stood it up in 2 seconds. Later, a beautiful woman named Summer comforted me... I road alone through a very cool and crisp desert to Yerington, where I stayed at the Casino West Motel for $50 and ended a 400 mile day.

09/27/99 Monday Yerington, NV. to Pahrump, NV. to Las Vegas, NV.

Monday morning was a very cool 40 degree full leather day. I packed my saddlebags, enjoyed a big, biker breakfast buffet, gassed up and headed out to Route 95S. After an hour, I realized it was a good thing that I stayed last night in Yerington, because there was nowhere else to stay on this road. 

I encountered a dust storm and had to cover my face with a bandana. The crosswinds were so strong, I had to lean the bike into the wind to avoid being blown over. What a site. A masked biker with sunglasses, in a dust storm, leaning at a 45 degree angle, going 60 MPH on a flat road. No wonder people were staring at me. As I passed Scotty's Junction, I noticed the gas gauge was on "E" and I had not seen a gas station for a while. As a matter of fact, I didn't remember the last car I saw either. I wondered what it would be like to run out of gas in the desert. I started coasting down hills and riding at 50 MPH, instead of my usual 80 MPH. I thought about trying to stop a Mobil tanker truck to buy a gallon. RIGHT!

I was way below "E" when I coasted into Beatty, with 260 miles on the trip odometer. I had never traveled that far on a tank before. I took Route 160S to see my old friend Bridget. Then on to Route 15N to Las Vegas. Around 5 PM, I left a happy anniversary message at the Treasure Island hotel for Paul and Jamie from the Hartford HOG chapter. I was at the Imperial Palace hotel, calling Bill and Patti, when Gary and Sally walked by. They said they had ridden 590 miles Sunday from Redding to Barstow on Route 5S to Route 58E. WOW! Bill and Patti, with a sore ankle, came down and bought me dinner.
They were booked on a very early morning flight to Palm Beach. We said goodbye for a second dam time.
I rode around for awhile and found the cheapest room I could, a $40 cockroach motel. This ended my last dam 400 mile day. 

09/28/99 Tuesday Las Vegas, NV. to Dallas, TX. to Hartford, CT.

My last dam day. I awoke early that morning, excited and saddened about my return trip back home. It had been a great adventure, but it was not over yet.

After packing for the last dam time, I washed and gassed the bike. As I came out of the station, a father with his young son were standing near the bike. The father asked a lot of questions about the bike: how big, how fast, how much. As I answered, I looked at his son. The kid was completely focused on the bike. He was not even blinking. I saw a camera hanging from the father's neck and offered to take a picture of he and the boy next to the bike. As they positioned themselves, I said it would be OK if the boy sat on the bike. We helped the 6 year old onto the seat. He couldn't reach the throttle, but he instinctively grabbed the left grip. OH YEAH! Future biker. Got a great picture of the boy, sitting on the bike, feet dangling and a wide eyed smile. So I reluctantly returned the rented bike to CruiseAmerica. 3500 miles in 14 days for $650 and free cab fare to and from the airport.

I checked my luggage with United and sadly waited for my 1:30 PM flight. At 1 PM, I happened to look up and saw that United canceled my flight to Denver/Hartford because of snow in Denver. DUH! They re-booked me on an American 3:30 PM flight to Dallas/Hartford. I called my friend Jennifer to tell her not to pick me up at 10 PM, that I would somehow find a way home at 1:30 AM. I wandered over to the American waiting area, hoping that my luggage would somehow make it to Hartford, when I saw Paul and Jamie. They were on the same flight. I explained my sad story and they offered me a ride home. IT'S GREAT TO BE A HOG MEMBER! I had a window seat. We flew over the Hoover (Boulder) Dam and the Grand Canyon, just like when I arrived 2 weeks ago. Goodbye beautiful country...hope to see you again real soon. We got into Hartford at 1:30 AM and somehow so did my luggage. Paul and Jamie dropped me off at home in Middletown around 2:50 AM. Somehow, I found myself at work in New Haven, by 9 AM that morning, staring at a computer screen, still tingling from my adventures.

One of these days, maybe I'll remove the BIG DAM TOUR wristband.